Wednesday, March 5, 2008

Report from: Cuvee-En-Route 2008 - March 1-2, 2008

What is there to say about the ultimate Ontario wine event, especially when it involves touring around tasting some of the best wines of Niagara (or any other wine region that participated in the program – 2 from the Lake Erie North Shore were in the brochure). Over the course of two days (Saturday and Sunday) I visited a total of 17 wineries to get my impressions of past, present and future wines that have or will be coming out of Niagara – here are the highlights and, unfortunately, one low-light from the two day winery extravaganza.

Maleta Winery …

A flight of Meritages: ’02, ’03, and ’05 … the ’02 ($29.95) is coming along nicely with the tannins and fruit integrating beautifully in the bottle, this one still has a few years of cellaring potential ahead of it. On the other hand, the monster ’05 is going to be big, really big – this weekend marked it’s first public appearance, in the form of a sneak preview – it still has 18 months (or so), before it’s official launch, so after the weekend it’s back into the cellar it goes. Currently there’s tons of black fruit wrapped up in silky rich tannins of vanilla. It’s 60% Cabernet Franc and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon … I’m told there’s some Merlot in there too, but too little to mention … it’s going to be a beauty upon release sometime in 2009. The wait is on.

Coyote’s Run …

Ontario wine lovers know (or have heard) that Coyote’s Run Winery has two very distinct soils on their property, a red clay and a black clay – and on early spring days or late fall days you can actually see the delineation line separating the two. Coyote’s Run has made a name for themselves by vinting the grapes that grow on these plots into Red Paw and Black Paw wines – most notably the Pinot Noirs (the 2006 Pinot Noir reviews on available now). New for 2006 will be the Red and Black Paw Cabernet Francs – two completely different, yet irresisitable in their own way. My favourite was the Black Paw with its striking nose of cherry and tobacco leaf, and the palate of sour cherry, vanilla and a touch earthyness … there’s also a luscious mouthfeel and long finish. No price yet, but if the Pinots are any indication, the Black will be more expensive than the Red … official launch June 2008.

Reif Estates Winery …

Showcasing their three 2002 First Growth Wines (Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon) these wines constitute the crème-de-la-crème of Reif’s wines. The Pinot was earthy-cranberry and sour cherry; the Merlot: chocolatety-earthy and dark fruit; while the Cabernet: rich, velvety and red fruited … each wine is fantastic and each retails for $50.

Lailey Vineyard …

A flight of Pinots showed what was, what is and what’s to come. The sold out 2004, the current (2006) Niagara Pinot (review coming in April) and Wismer Pinot, and the unbelievable but true 2007 Pinot (watch for it Spring of 2009) – you would not believe your eyes (re: colour) or your tastebuds (wow!).

Jackson-Triggs …

White dominated J-T’s offering this weekend with a wine that makes its first appearance since 2001, the stellar 2006 Proprietors’ Grand Reserve Riesling ($17.50) – then there was the award winning 2006 White Meritage ($24.75) and the only red on the panel today, the 2005 Delaine Vineyard Cabernet Merlot ($18.95).

Featherstone …

Not a winery I expected to see open … but happy to find out they were, due to their win for best Limited Edition White Wine – 2007 Gewurztraminer. New and noteworthy is the 2007 Sauvignon Blanc and the 2008 summer release 2007 Black Sheep Riesling (July 2008 – when the sheep return to the vineyard). Featherstone will be closed now until April (2008), when they will launch these beauties as well as a few others that were not divulged to me – they have to keep both you and I in suspense.

Hernder Estate …

Caused quite a stir, by entering the same wine twice (2004 Merlot - $14.95) and winning both times … is this a loophole in the Cuvee rules? Why it did not sell out the first time is a mystery to me – but take advantage of it while you can – the price is very affordable, the wine is very good. Even former winemaker Ray Cornell had a hard time believing there’s some left … “It’s the best wine I ever made there,” he said. The time in nigh to beg borrow or steal fifteen bucks to get yourself a bottle.
It has now been brought to my attention that this was a mistake on the part of Cuvee - as it turns out, nobody won best Merlot and the previous winner (Hernder) was not removed from the program before it went to print.

Hillebrand Winery …

Hillebrand we’re thumping their chest with pride as they showed off their awards – 3 in total: 2006 Trius White, 2005 Artist Series Meritage and 2006 Trius Dry Rielsling (review pending).

Calamus Estate …

A winery that cleaned up big at the Ontario Wine Awards last spring was shut out this winter at Cuvee – but they brought out a couple of newbies (2007 Pinot Gris and 2007 Riesling) both exceptionally good hot-weather quaffers (both reviews pending). Also on sample were a couple of older horses that have done very well, even better now that they had a little bottle age: 2006 Calamus Red and the 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon.

Vineland …

Thrilled by yet another year of Riesling, made by Brian Schmidt (the 2007 Semi-Dry – review pending) and his Riesling-centric brain – the folks at Vineland decided instead to focus on some of Brian’s other whites, the Alsatian inspired ones: Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Gewurztraminer (reviews all pending).

Rosewood …

Our final good experience came at Rosewood Estates, a new winery, and Niagara’s only meadery, was open for a sneak peak this weekend only, their official opening is May 3rd, 2008. Wines of note included a Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, Trois Femme Rosee and the Merlot (reviews will appear in an upcoming newsletter).

Inniskillin …

Ugh! People will think I am picking on Inniskillin (see Icewine review), but really I just expect more from them then a cheesy-o stunt like this. The program stated “2006 Inniskillin Canadian Oak Riesling icewine” – sounds great right? Instead they were pouring a cloudy tank sample of their 2007 icewine that will “sooner or later” see Canadian oak … I also learned that this is the first year they’ll be trying this combination (Riesling Ice in Canadian wood) – so there never was a 2006 Canadian Oaked Riesling Icewine to be had. The “sample” that was poured had absolutely no oaking done to it what-so-ever … ouch! To add insult to injury, the eye-candy that served this to us said, “Oak ageing does nothing to the wine, except soften its acidity.” … double-ouch!! I expect so much more from Inniskillin – please folks, don’t make me lower those expectation, let’s get it right next time out – say for the Wine and Herb Festival in May.

Well besides that there really is no whining about Cuvee – it is truly all about the hooch. This entire event is centered around wine … when I was offered cheese and appetizers at Calamus I almost wet my shorts, they were the first, and one of the few, to offer up a pairing (Maleta did truffles, Rosewood had cheese and honeycake, Reif offered up Melba toast) … “You’ve come all this way, might as well feed you,” said Pat Latin as she placed a shrimp appetizer in front of us, which matched quite well with the Gris. She was shocked to find out nobody else was doing a pairing. (Derek Saunders, co-owner) was thrilled – “more shrimp for me,” he said clicking his heels together – the food’s a nice touch, but just keep the good wine flowing.

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